“Just get the Heath Bar,” a friend suggested for the third or fourth time, having grown weary of my lack of understanding about what I was supposed to do.
It was the mid-1970s in Somerville, Massachusetts and we were standing in a line that stretched around the block to get in to Steve’s Ice Cream. Before Steve’s, ordinary ice cream existed. Steve took some of the air out (literally), learning how to make a dense, more flavorful product. But what he became known for was something he called “mix-ins.” When you ordered your ice cream at Steve’s, there were crumbled candy bars and other items that might have been called “toppings,” but here was the genius: Steve would scoop that new and improved ice cream onto a stone slab and mix the “toppings” in, using a couple of heavy-duty spatulas. Crumbles of Heath Bar were one of, if not THE, most popular.
This buried memory of decades ago was unearthed in a flash during a recent and first visit to the new Cold Stone Creamery in West Lebanon, NH. When the man working there plopped the scoop of ice cream onto a small granite slab and started to stir in some peanut butter and a few other goodies, my aging brain snapped to and I said, “This is just like Steve’s.”
At Cold Stone, my husband and I shared a single serving (two spoons) like high school besties. It was dense and sweet and tasty, and had some shards of peanut butter cups throughout. According to the Creamery website, the ice cream is “made fresh in every store.” A glance around revealed multiple variations of ice cream made to order, including some plant-based options. There were smoothies and ice cream cakes.
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I have since learned that Steve Herrell is well acknowledged to be a pioneer in the modern ice cream era. Ben and Jerry visited with him before launching their own brand in Vermont. Cold Stone Creamery with its “cold stone” for mixing, and Dairy Queen’s Blizzard, both with add-ins (I won’t use “mix-ins” as I think that was Steve’s term,) took inspiration from Steve’s. Steve left his Somerville business in 1977 and after some time established a new ice cream business called Herrell’s. He has retired, but Herrell’s continues at its location in Northampton, Massachusetts. Steve wrote a book, Ice Cream and Me, published by Not Too Shabby Press, in which he apparently and improbably confessed, “I’m kind of a vanilla guy.”
“Steve Herrell proposed mixing popular cookies and candies into rich, creamy, natural ice cream made in the store window. Almost every business owner said that we would ‘lose our shirts’ with this model. Instead, it revolutionized the industry.”—Judith Herrell, quoted in Boston Business Journal, 2011
And the next part I could not have credibly invented. As we were finishing our ice cream, a gentleman of a certain age (close to my own) wandered up to the counter. In an exchange with the employee about choices, he asked “Got any Heath Bars?” To which the employee replied that he didn’t, but he did have some other kind of toffee that might do. The man wavered, remaining skeptical.
I could not hear the resolution of the no-Heath-Bar-issue, but I bet the gentleman was a former Steve’s customer. Perchance he and I even stood in line together some fifty years ago, both of us then younger, both of us still, decades later, on the lookout for the ultimate ice cream. How I wish I would have asked.
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And in case you are wondering . . . Susan B. Apel shuttered a lifelong career as a law professor to continue an interest (since kindergarten) in writing. Her freelance business, The Next Word, includes literary and feature writing; her work has appeared in a variety of lit mags and other publications including Art New England, The Woven Tale Press, The Arts Fuse, Next Avenue, and Persimmon Tree. She connects with her neighbors through Artful, her blog about arts and culture in the Upper Valley. She’s in love with the written word.









