Oakes & Evelyn: Culinary Artistry

Chef Justin Dain, formerly of Pine at the Hanover Inn

It’s been several months since Chef Justin Dain left Pine in Hanover NH and headed north to Montpelier VT to open his new restaurant, Oakes & Evelyn. Positive reviews have drifted southward to the Upper Valley. My husband and I decided that we needed to see, and taste, for ourselves. We booked an indoor table for an anniversary celebration.

As befits a serious restaurant, the food is the star, and every bite spoke of Dain’s culinary artistry. Dinner is not just good, it’s exciting. (Some have written about the inventive speciality cocktails, but I had no first-hand experience with them.) The menu is locally sourced, divided into snacks, raw bar, small plates and large plates. A special appetizer, chanterelle mushrooms over toasted brioche with a hint of finely rasped local cheddar, was superb. We paired it with the General Tso’s pork belly steamed bun from the regular menu. Entrees were pieces of short ribs over a special homemade pasta, and halibut served on creamed polenta (photo, above). Rich mouth feel on both and especially with the halibut, ingredients and seasoning that seemed to layer flavors and textures perfectly.

No room for dessert for us as we had accepted the chef’s gracious invitation to sample some silken lemony hummus with toasted pita to determine whether the restaurant should include it on a future regular menu. We didn’t dither in recommending it.

The service was friendly, informed and casual, with a sufficient number of servers and cooking staff (there’s an open kitchen) to keep things moving at a reasonable pace. Decor is minimally bistro—resembling that of Kismet, the restaurant that preceded Oakes & Evelyn—with sturdy bare tables. Outdoor dining is an option on a patio that sits directly on State Street. Take-out ordering is available.

We look forward to a return trip, and soon, even as we lament Dain’s departure from the Upper Valley. If you want to make it a relaxing evening with no night driving, you can check in to the Hilton/Capitol Plaza Hotel just a block from the restaurant. If so, and especially with the hotel’s restaurant closed for vacation, there are sparse options for breakfast in Montpelier; try going across the street to Capitol Grounds Cafe for good coffee and made-to-order breakfast sandwiches.

For further information about Oakes & Evelyn, 52 State Street in Montpelier VT, and to peruse the menu, please click here. Reservations recommended.

[Note: Kismet has relocated to Barre Street, but did not appear to be open for dining. It has advertised that it is catering a small plates menu at the new and spacious Barr Hill by Caledonia Spirits complex on Gin Lane in Montpelier.]

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And in case you are wondering . . . Susan B. Apel shuttered a lifelong career as a law professor to continue an interest (since kindergarten) in writing. Her freelance business, The Next Word, includes literary and feature writing; her work has appeared in a variety of lit mags and other publications including Art New England, The Woven Tale Press, The Arts Fuse, and Persimmon Tree. She connects with her neighbors through Artful, her blog about arts and culture in the Upper Valley. She’s in love with the written word.